Interview with the Chef: Gaetano Cannata

Gaetano ("Guy") Cannata

"Look at that table over there," Gaetano Cannata's 13-year-old daughter Felicia comments.  "Talking to the people at the other table.  They didn't know each other when they came in here, and now they're friends."  In fact, neither she, nor her older brother Joey, could remember the last time they stopped in to their father's restaurant where strangers weren't talking with one-another.  "This is a special place," She observed.

Ortygia Restaurant, located in the Village of the Arts, Bradenton, named after an island near Sicily, has been described as the "magical place."  It's that brightly colored yellow and blue trimmed old Floridian home, surrounded by a fenced in garden, with orchids and a variety of herb boxes on the front porch.

"People have fallen in love here," Cannata said.

I asked the chef and owner how he came to be a chef and restaurateur.

"My father was from Siracusa,"  He answered.  "He was a chef, and from him, I learned the tricks of the trade. And, I don't know how much you know about the history of Sicily [not much], but for a long time, the French occupied Siracusa (Syracuse)."  Cannata continued with his tale of invasions, and talked about how fascinated he is with the way history changes the nature of foods, and how we cook.

Cannata, who grew up in New York and New Jersey, moved to Florida some twenty years ago.  "At the time," he explained.  "Bradenton was like an Italian restaurant wasteland.  I mean, you had some Italian restaurants, but not enough."

Cannata wanted to bring the taste of Siracusa, with its Italian-French influence, to Bradenton, and in 2007, he finally opened Ortygia, "People don't know how to describe my food," he said.  "It's not what people expect when they hear the words Italian cuisine.  You won't find eggplant or chicken parmesian on the menu."

Instead, visitors are served the "food of the Monzu", or the former aristocracy in Sicily, including savory dishes like Caponata Bruschetta, a sweet and sour eggplant with capers, celery, olives and Mediterranean vegetables, or the Pate di Pollo con Pistacchio, a fresh chicken and basil pate.  A healthy eater by nature, Cannata also creates his own vegetarian and some vegan dishes, based on recipes handed down to him from his father.

When asked what part he played in the menu, plating, and decor, and he replied, "Every damn thing I did!"  And he's not kidding.  There are times when Cannata acts as cook, host, server and dishwasher, and when you stop in to his Ortygia home, you're likely to find him chatting up the guests in one of the two small dining areas, clearing plates with one hand, and pouring wine with the other.

Now, Cannata has help, usually from friends who - like him - are or were fellow school teachers [That explains the history lesson].  The unique ambiance is about as eclectic as the man himself, who spends his down time stepping in as the village harmonica player, often receiving requests to "jam" with the local bands, or meditate with his son's former Kung Fu teacher.  

"I love being in the Village of the Arts," he finished.  "I'm telling you, there's something magical here."

The complete menu, with restaurant location can be found on the restaurant's website, Ortygia.