Lunch Review: Mekenita Mexican Grille

Modern meets Mexican at this hip, little cantina in Lutz. Formerly known as Mariposa Mexican Grille, the newly renamed Mekenita Mexican Grille sits at the edge of the Van Dyke Commons shopping plaza on the corner of Van Dyke Road and North Dale Mabry Highway. The grille opened its doors in 2007 by acclaimed former chef of Roy’s in Tampa, Rand Packer, and his wife, Tiffani. Although this joint is only a fraction of the size of Roy’s, Mekenita makes up for it with a menu that’s monumental in flavor and freshness. Packers' cool, California persona shines through in all aspects of the restaurant. At first glance, the Pacific-influenced Mexican dishes may seem like simple concepts, but the unique combinations and tastes are Mekenita’s recipes for success.

The décor: Catch a glimpse at the entire restaurant from the front door, and the warm tones like burnt reds, rusty oranges and bright yellows give off an instant welcoming feeling. Funky-shaped modern metal lanterns and multi-colored fixtures hang from the ceiling bringing a low, warm lighting to the restaurant. Bright blue painted pottery pops against the earth-toned walls. The seating is simple, with dark wooden booths and tables and light unfinished wooden chairs. Greenery, Mayan figurines and other Mexican artifacts are spread throughout the room, blending the old with the new.

The routine: There isn’t a whole lot of seating, less than 20 tables, so if it’s busy, you might have to wait a few minutes. The concept of Mekenita is similar to a Moe’s/Chipotle/Tijuana-type restaurant. Stand in line, look over the menu and check out the chalkboard with daily specials hanging on the wall behind the register, make a selection and give your order to the cashier. If you have a question or want to make a substitution, feel free to ask because they are extremely helpful and accommodating and give honest opinions on the food and sauces. Then have a seat at one of the booths or tables and await the chips and salsa that are brought out by a member of the young wait staff.  Warning: the chips have a seasoning that can be addicting. Your table may require seconds.

The scene: Mekenita has a more upscale feel than an ordinary quick walk-up-and-order-type eatery, yet it still maintains the same casually comfortable atmosphere. The grille can suit anything from a quiet business meeting over lunch to a date or a night out with friends. Hip tunes anywhere from upbeat salsa to laid back Jack Johnson or Spanish rock from the Mexican group Maná play in the background, giving off a fun, foot-tapping vibe.

The story: Mariposa or Mekenita? The restaurant originally opened as Mariposa (meaning ‘butterfly’ in Spanish) Mexican Grille, however in an effort to resolve a conflict regarding an unrelated Colorado restaurant with the same name, Parker and his wife Tiffani decided to switch it over to Mekenita Mexican Grille, which is also the nickname of their oldest daughter, Mekena.

The food: Kick off your meal with one of the ‘Entradas Divertidas’ or ‘Fun Starters” like Smoked Chicken Black Bean “EggRolls” with citrus rice and chipotle lime crema sauce ($7), Puerto Escondido Seafood Ceviche with shrimp, wahoo and avocado in a spicy lime and tomato jus ($8) or Cumin Grilled Chicken & Mango Plantain Nachos with Mexican cheese and Serrano Passion Fruit sour cream ($8). The sweet and savory flavors and spices mixed with the soft and crunchy textures put these nachos over the top taste-wise and also make them my favorite Mekenita dish.

Mekenita’s ‘Ensaladas’ or ‘Salads’ are big in size and flavor, like Cumin Grilled Chicken Salad with Salsa Verde Vinaigrette ($7), Grilled Skirt Steak & Roasted Pepper Salad with Chipotle Citrus Vinaigrette ($8) and Crispy Tiger Shrimp Salad with Cilantro Lime Aioli and Tangerine Ancho Vinaigrette ($8).  They’re all served with refried or black beans, guacamole, red onions, citrus rice, Mexican cheese and chili dusted corn Tortilla strips, and are definitely large enough to share. You can even ask the cashier to have it divided and brought out in two bowls.

Tacos are served three per order filled with Mexican cheese, guacamole, cilantro, shredded cabbage, onions and sour cream, such as Pacific Wood Smoked Pork Tacos with Roasted Chipotle Salsa ($8) or Cumin Grilled Chicken Tacos with Roasted Salsa Verde ($7).

The colossal Burritos are most likely enough for two small meals. They are filled with refried or black beans, citrus rice, cabbage, Mexican cheese, sour cream and guacamole, and the Mariposa Grande Burrito also includes grilled skirt steak and chicken rolled in a parmesan crusted tortilla with chipotle salsa and is a house favorite ($9).

‘Sopes’ are another favorite dish at Mekenita. These crispy ‘Homemade Petite Tortilla Pies’ come 2 per order with a choice of grilled skirt steak, smoked chicken or pork, and are filled with shredded cabbage, avocado, pico de gallo, Mexican cheese and sour cream ($8).

The sweets: If you want a refreshing sweet treat at the end of the meal, try a ‘Paleta’ or ‘Mexican fruit popsicle.’ These beloved frozen pops come in flavors like Mango, Piña Colada, Banana, Passion Fruit and Peach ($2).

The ‘bebidas’ (drinks): Mekenita is famous for the ‘Aguas Frescas’ or Fresh-Made Juices ($2.50). Flavors like Agua de Strawberry, Agua de Passion Peach, Agua de Papaya and Ginger and Agua Mixta (combination) alternate in the juice bar, along with a variety of specialty flavors not regularly listed on menu. The juices are in glass containers sitting over ice with wooden stick nametags next to each container to distinguish the flavors.

‘Cervezas’ such as Pacifico, Sol, Heineken, Dos xx, Corona, Tecate ($4), Budweiser and Bud Light ($3.50) are served in 12-ounce bottles. Mekenita’s homemade Red Sangria is also served by the glass ($6) or by the pitcher ($22).

The damage: Lunch and dinner entrees range from $6 to $15. Hours: Monday through Saturday from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. and closed Sunday

Insider tips: Mekenita Mexican Grille is also Vegetarian-friendly. Most menu items can be made vegetarian by substituting fire-roasted vegetables for the meat item in the dish.  The grille is also kid-friendly with a special ‘Los Niños’ section of the menu.

The bottom line: This casually trendy cantina’s Pacific-influenced Mexican fare hits the spot for a quick bite at lunch or a relaxed dinner.

Mekenita Mexican Grille

17623 N. Dale Mabry Hwy

Lutz, 33548

(813) 264-1212

www.MekenitaMexicanGrille.com