Cheap Eats: Partner's Sports Cafe

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I arrived at the building, situated in Kenwood, and saw what appeared to be (from the outside) a very standard drinking hole for the local football or basketball fan, but upon my entrance, it was quite clear that this was not the average sports bar. With the garish neon décor, the stereo system playing a clubbed up remix of ‘Dancing Queen’ and some strange looks from (what I assume were) the regulars, it was apparent I was not in Kansas any more. Don’t let my words deceive you though. There is definitely a sports bar vibe and arrangement, but it’s got the fringe touch that you would only get at an outsider joint and the good folks over at Partners have demonstrated that they can strike a good balance between restraint and flamboyance.

The Service: I was greeted and seated affably and promptly and our server, Gideon, was very attentive and knowledgeable. In addition to letting me know about the previous night’s drag show (which is a regular event), he also informed me of the upcoming events such as live music and their dance nights (which you can stay up-to-date on by checking out their website).

The Ambiance: Scattered throughout the bar are multiple televisions, video games, two pool tables and a dart board, all of which can serve to distract you while either drinking or passing time while waiting for your food. As far as alcohol goes, the recently opened bar has a large selection of wines and beers (including their very own Partners Ale, which, unfortunately, they were out of at the time I ate).

The Menu: Their menu varies in fare from your more traditional bar foods (chicken wings, nachos, quesadillas, et. al.) to more unusual pub dishes like the relish tray ($7.00) or the slow simmered, homemade chili and salad ($7.00). In the evening (from 6 pm to 8 pm), they have what looks to be a fabulous and fancy bistro menu. For appetizers, they have New England Crab Cakes (with a Roasted Pepper and Caper Remoulade) ($10.50) and Portobello mushrooms braised with fresh rosemary and garlic ($9.50), just to name a couple.

For dinner entrees, they have fish specialties such as Salmon Palma Dora ($16.50) and the Chef’s specially prepared Tilapia ($16.50). I started off my meal with a side of delicious Stuffed Olives ($7.00) that were crispy, flavorful and made a great combination with the creamy horseradish-flavored dipping sauce. The salty sour of the olives meshed well with the crispness of the breading and the slightly bitter flavor of the asiago cheese stuffed inside of them. Next up was the Calamari ($8.00) which wasn’t bad by any means, but the breading had the flavor and consistency of dough that you would find at a state fair or carnival (in an elephant ear, fried snickers bar or any of the other multitudes of fried foods you would find). The calamari itself was tender and well-cooked and the marinara sauce was well-flavored and served as a good balance. The Cuban ($8.00) provided a fantastic next step. The bread was fresh and crispy, as were the pickles. The mustard and mayonnaise were applied generously and evenly, but not overdone. The Swiss cheese was perfectly melted and complemented the flavorful blending of Genoa salami, hap and spiced port. The potato salad that accompanied the sandwich was decent, with generously sized chunks of potato and standard celery accompaniment and flavorings, but nothing that really made it stand out. The Pan Seared Panko Tilapia Fish Sandwich ($9.00) emerged as the only major disappointment in my experience. While the texture of the Panko suited the fish well, the flavor was disappointingly bland and, additionally, the fish afforded my palate with a strange, unpleasant aftertaste. The tartar sauce, sadly, did not help matters. It was flavorless with a slightly sweet undertone that didn’t mix well with any aspect of the sandwich.The pasta salad that sided the sandwich was pleasant in that it wasn’t drenched in dressing, although it could’ve been a bit more flavorful and a little fresher.

Another exciting aspect of their menu is that they have a constantly revolving menu of desserts (and fairly priced, I may add). This day, the offering was Strawberry-swirled Cheesecake ($2.50). The cheesecake, I felt, was a little dry in the middle and a little too moist in the crust, but the sauce had a nice, tart sweetness to it. While it tasted fine, it was also forgettable. I don’t feel as if I could differentiate theirs from any other decent restaurant’s cheesecake.

The Bottom Line: All in all, I left fairly satisfied with the service, the food and the knowledge that the struggle to help make bar food tastier, more exciting and even healthier is not yet near its end.

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