Inside: Pelagia Trattoria

(Credit: George Denison)

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Pelagia Trattoria

Modern Italian cuisine with a "Frabrizio" twist

Pelagia Trattoria photos

Don’t skip this modern Italian trattoria hidden in back of...

A beautiful dining area, diverse and approachable menu, and knowledgeable staff make Pelagia a lesser-known Tampa gem. Though connected to the Renaissance Tampa Hotel at International Plaza and enjoyed by overnight guests, locals and other area visitors should not overlook this spot.  It claims and maintains it’s independent space and offers some delicious and affordable choices for every meal of the day.

The Digs:  Pelagia’s space is clean and casually chic.  Bright tile, multi-colored lamps, and simple wooden tables make a vibrant and comfortable indoor space complete with a full bar area.  The outdoor patio features simple cloth umbrellas, hanging lanterns and white lights, and mosaic-topped dinette sets.  Depending on the weather, each space is equally outfitted for a most pleasant dining experience.

The Grub:  With slightly overlapping menus for any time of day, you can’t get to Pelagia at the wrong time.  Executive Chef Fabrizio Schenardi is in complete control of his simple, palatable menu as almost everything from bread to infused grappa (YUM!) is made in-house with fresh (always) and local (whenever possible) ingredients.  If an ingredient isn’t of top quality, as in the case of some of the recent Florida strawberry crops, Fabrizio will take an item off of the menu instead of opting for a frozen or low-quality option.  And, if there is something special you need (vegan? gluten-free? nut allergy?) ask to speak with the chef.  You’ll eat.  Well.  Portion size should be noted, too, because there’s a great chance you’ll leave with a great lunch ready for the next day.  You’ll get what you pay for.

For breakfast or brunch, do yourself a favor and try the Banana and Nutella French Toast with Berries Coulis ($12.50).  For lunch, any of the thin crust artisan pizzas are worthwhile, particularly a well-done pie with oven-dried tomatoes, proscuitto, buffalo mozzarella, and baby arugula ($12.00).  They also offer an excellent Express Lunch menu featuring five selections—like a pressed focaccia sandwich with assorted Italian meats and sweet provolone cheese—plus an iced tea or soft drink for $9.95.

Pelagia’s dinner menu is just the right size and has something for everyone. The complimentary breadbasket includes made-from-scratch rosemary sourdough and olive breads served with pesto and tapenade. Any of the Stuzzichini (small plate) or Antipasto (appetizers) offerings can double as a tapas-style meal at the bar.  The sweet Crab Salad with avocado panzanella and oven-dried tomato is crisp, crunchy, and refreshing as is the duck confit served with thick-cut and lightly battered fried green tomatoes.

The homemade pasta selections are creative and delicious.  Potato-Spinach Gnocchi with four cheese fondue and fennel sausage ($19) is absolutely filling and rich.  The Basil Tajarin with Lemon-Oil Cured Shrimp, corn ragout, toasted pine nuts, and tomato ($25) sounds as complex as it tastes—in the best way.

If you love fish (and even if you don’t!), you’ll be more than satisfied with the Pan-seared Chilean Sea Bass with sage, garlic, sea salt, pepper, lobster and saba sauce, roasted fingerling potatoes, and asparagus ($29).  The fish is finely crisped on the outside and almost melted on the inside.  This might be the best item on the menu.

For dessert, try Pelagia’s Apple and Rosemary Phyllo Dough Pastry with caramel sauce or the custard-style Tiramisu.  Don’t forget the fruit-infused grappa.  The raisin and blueberry are delicious.

The Crowd:  Pelagia is a suitable choice for nearly all dining situations.  Families, couples, and business associates alike will feel welcome and appropriate.  The dress code can range from casual to cocktail. 

The Bottom Line:  Whether you’re out for breakfast, lunch, dinner, or a late snack, don’t skip this modern Italian trattoria hidden in back of most of Bay Street’s main drag. Pelagia caters the hotel’s functions as well, so consider them for an upcoming wedding, business meeting, or other banquet-sized function.