Inside: Stonewood Grill & Tavern

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My significant other and I had the opportunity to share a dinner at the warm and inviting Stonewood Grill & Tavern on University Parkway last Friday evening. Our waiter, Andy, enthusiastically relayed the evening's specials, careful to point out "If you're looking for something a little lighter, you'll like this," but "if you really like a more substantial sauce, try that." 

The choices: To start, we settled on sharing the Baked Brie topped with fire roasted red peppers, basil and olive oil, served with a side of seedless red grapes and a sliced baguette ($9.50).  At our request, he graciously brought out samples of the sweet blueberry compote (which normally adorns the Salmon Almondine) and the slightly saltier cognac peppercorn sauce (as a topping for their oak grilled steaks), both making good dipping sauces for our bread, as well.

For dinner, I ordered the Duck Confit & Bartlett Pear Salad ($12).  While the menu suggested a wine pairing with one of my all time favorite wines - the Sonoma Valley Sebastiani Pinot Noir ($8.50 per glass and $32 per bottle), I was lured by the 2 for 1 Happy Hour (4 p.m.-7p.m.), and ordered the house La Terre Cabernet Sauvignon (Normally $5.80 per glass), which definitely lacked the sophistication of the aged Sebastiani, but was a suitable table wine solid enough to go well with duck or a heavier steak.  It is no wonder why the Confit has achieved "signature" status, as the tender poultry was enhanced by the unique combination of bleu cheese and pear.

My date ordered the Salmone Almondine ($17) with a brandied blueberry compote, served with a side of asparagus and garlic mashed potatoes, on a bed of rice pilaf.  Surprising is how the sweet dessert-like blueberry would compliment the almond dusted salmon, but the combination balanced each other.  The asparagus, while a little chewier at the stem, was steamed overall, enough to be tender, but not so much as to become "water logged" and mushy.

The portions were generous, and we ended up sharing a dessert, a gloriously thick Chocolate Toffee Kahlua Mousse ($6.5), with a creamy center and encrusted with a rich chocolate cookie crust.  Not quite ready to end our feast, we polished off the night with a glass of an aromatic Rommano Black Sambucca ($6.50).

Insider Tips: For those who want to begin to understand how to pair foods with each other (and with wines), and can't figure out how the heck Chef Mike thought to combine bleu cheese with duck, I have a suggestion: Practice food chemistry, "experiment" with combinations and notice how the flavors and textures change in varied combinations vs. alone.

In this case, on my plate were slices roasted duck, bartlett pears, walnuts, and bleu cheese on a bed of fresh mixed greens lightly seasoned with a raspberry vinaigrette. All by itself, the bleu cheese would be harsh and if paired only with the duck (which will be mildly gamey compared to other meats), and overpowering. But add in slight tartness of the pear, mild bitters in the vinaigrette, and muted woodsy flavor of the walnuts, and your entire tongue is now pleasantly activated.  The field greens not only add to the entire plate, but also help balance out the heaviness of meats and cheeses (and for this, your stomach with thank you later).

The Ambiance: Stonewood Grill & Tavern provides cozy cushioned booths throughout the main dining area, complete with soft orange drop lights and warm fall colored modern framed art prints.  The tavern side offers a full bar surrounded by high pub stools, with a side room for private parties, or for additional table seating. 

The tavern became exceptionally busy after 7p.m., making quiet conversation a little difficult. So plan on having dinner with someone you don't mind being close to, or limit private conversation to topics you don't mind having to talk above a whisper about.

The Dress: A "dinner only" restaurant, you might expect everyone to be dressed to the nines. Not so in the casual fine-dining atmosphere.  I saw everything from jeans and a T-shirt to suits and ties.  However, business casual to casual chic would be the attire of choice.

The Bottom Line: One of the nice things about the menu, is it's price-consciousness. So, while there are higher priced lamb, filet mignon and lobster entrees, there are also a pleasant variety of gourmet menu items within the $10-$15 range. Plan on spending an average of $35 per person, less if you're not planning on a cocktail or dessert.

The overall experience (the food, service and ambiance) was superb.

Stonewood Grill & Tavern has many locations throughout Florida. Visit www.stonewoodgrill.com for details. The University Parkway address is 5415 University Parkway, Sarasota, FL. 34201. Phone: 941-355-3315. Hours: Monday-Thursday, 4 p.m. - 10 p.m., Friday-Saturday, 4 p.m. - 11 p.m. and Sunday 3 p.m. - 10 p.m.  

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