It's A Secret: Raga Indian Restaurant

This quiet oasis shouldn't be a secret.

Sarah Collette

June 10, 2008

 
Critic's Rating:
4 1/2

It's A Secret: Raga Indian Restaurant
Your butt could (and should) be in these seats. (Credit: Sarah Collette)
Photos:
Vegetable pakoras Aloo Palak Tandoori chicken Garlic naan
Looking for Indian in the Bay area and can’t find a decent place among the glut of chain restaurants and seafood shacks? Raga’s a diamond in the rough, located at the end of a shabby shopping center at the intersection of East Bay and U.S. 19 in Clearwater. The restaurant isn’t visible from either roadway. Maybe that’s why it’s so quiet.

Quiet is an understatement, and shockingly so – on a Sunday night, the only patrons were my better half and myself. It’s a nice respite from other restaurants, full of howling, out-of-control children, rowdy bargoers or people who refuse to use their indoor voices, however, it probably doesn’t bode well from a business standpoint.

 

Starters were vegetable pakoras ($4.50) and garlic naan ($3.95). An Indian restaurant’s naan can usually give away the quality of what’s to come. While others fall flat and may taste as if they were lingering under a heat lamp for too long, Raga’s is straight out of the tandoor oven. Light and flaky, with a hint of garlic and butter and topped with a pinch of fresh cilantro, this flatbread is served piping hot inside a basket, cut in half.

One would expect a deep-fried vegetable dumpling to be greasy and heavy, but the restaurant’s pakoras are also light, crispy on the outside with the perfect consistency and firmness in the middle. Delicious.
 

Our entrées came quickly, with impeccable service. I had the aloo palak ($11.25), while my husband savored the tandoori chicken ($13.95). As soon as his fork touched the chicken, he exclaimed that the chicken fell right off the bone. That's the sign of meat done right. I grabbed a forkful (or two). It retained juiciness while still being thoroughly cooked. The flavoring was subtle but effective. Oh, yeah, and the outside of the chicken is red. Why is it red? It's the spices mixed in with the yogurt used to marinate the meat before it's baked in the tandoori oven.

Aloo palak (potatoes and tomatoes in a thick, spicy, spinach-based gravy), served in a metal bowl with a side of basmati rice, was spicy enough for me, a self-described fire-eater. The hotter, the better! However, the intensity wasn't overwhelming. I could taste everything represented in the dish and the mild, fragrant basmati assisted the balance. It's also surprisingly filling -- I couldn't finish even half of it in one sitting. Maybe loading up on pakoras helped me to concede defeat.
 

As we ate, we kept looking at the ornate wooden doors, expecting a group of friends or perhaps a party of two to saunter in. Didn't happen. This secret shouldn't be kept hush-hush. Just don't be too loud about it.

Raga Indian Restaurant
16080 U.S. 19
Clearwater, 33764
http://www.ragaflorida.com

 

Add a comment

You will be prompted to register or log in when posting.

Please note that by clicking on "Post Comment" you acknowledge that you have read the Terms of Service. Be polite. Inappropriate posts may be removed by the moderator.

RELATED LINKS