Lunch Review: Astoria

If you visit the Russian Tea Room in New York City, it’s hard to miss the aura of power lurking about.  There’s a chill in air, a crisp feeling of serious concentration, and ice cold vodka poured non-stop.  None of that, however, is found at the Astoria Russian Restaurant.  The small establishment is warm and inviting, with byzantine styled chandeliers, cozy chairs, and owners Misha and Alla Golubchik, who greet you at the door like long lost relatives. 

The tiny dining room is decorated in crimson red and shiny gold with a colorful wall mural of St. Basil’s cathedral.  Classical Russian music plays overhead, while a young Belarusian gentleman is your server.

К сожалению, я пока не говорю по-русски
Unfortunately, I can’t speak Russian

Ordering off the menu is easy, as most the dishes are named in English.  Popular menu items include: Beef Stroganoff, Chicken Kiev, and Veriniky – Russian pierogies.  Specialty dishes include Danila’s Lobster Tail stuffed with crabmeat, shrimp, and scallops, and the Feast of the Tsar, a duck baked with apples in a creamy black currant sauce.

Как дела?
How is everything?   

I once heard that Russians never go a day without a bowl of soup, which is probably why Russians are renowned for their soup making skills.  I ordered the borsch ($6.95), the Russian signature soup.  It came delivered in a white terrine with a side of sour cream and a freshly baked bun.  The borsch was divine!  The broth was beet red in color, matching the walls of the dining room.  The soup had a velvety texture, smooth on my tongue while tickling my taste buds and softly coating the back of my throat.  A hint of hearty beef flavor finished each slurp of the soup.   The sour cream added richness to the borsch while also tinting it a pretty pink.  The bun turned out to be a pyroshuk, a dumpling of sorts, stuffed with meat just like an empanada.  The bun had the texture and thickness of a dinner roll and the filling was lightly seasoned ground beef.   After enjoying the borsch, I decided that I too, could happily commit to a daily bowl of this fabulous soup.

For the main course I ordered the Lulya Kabob ($16.95) which is also known as lamb cakes.  Three small patties, similar to Lebanese kibbeh, appeared on my plate, with a serving of mashed potatoes and asparagus.  The lamb cakes were served atop julienned slices of onions spiked with paprika.  Eating the lamb cakes and onions together created an explosive sensation sensation in my mouth, with the heat of paprika pushing the hearty lamb to keep up.  It was definitely enjoyable.

My companion ordered the Chicken Kiev ($18.95), which looked like a golden football on a bed of wild rice.  One cut into the Kiev and butter began spilling out onto the plate.  The chicken breast was tender and extremely juicy.  Eating the chicken breast in combination with its creamy white filling, soft green spinach, and rich butter gravy is to eat a dish fit for royalty. 

Dessert options came presented on a gold tray, and each offering looked too good to pass up.  We ordered the Kiev Pastry ($6.95), and the Cappuccino Cake ($6.95), both being Golubchik family creations.  The Kiev Pastry is a giant meringue cookie stuffed with candied cashews and topped with a scoop of pastry cream.  The cake has six layers alternating of cappuccino mousse and chocolate cake.  The Golubchiks explained that when they came to America, they longed for their beloved Kiev Pastry.  Without a recipe and with only their taste buds to guide them, they spent the better of two years perfecting this dessert.

Минуту, пожалуйста
One moment, please     

Somewhere between bites, my stomach screamed: “Stop, please!”  Russian food, though light in spices and delicate in texture, turns out to be very heavy in the stomach.  My belly felt as if it had been filled with bricks.  Mind you, I had eaten half of the soup, one lamb cake, and two bites of my dessert, and I couldn’t go any further.  Diners to Astoria should come with an empty stomach, a lesson I learned the hard way. 

***

Astoria Russian Restaurant
8126 Main Street
Lakewood Ranch, FL  34202
http://www.astoriarussianrestaurant.com
Tel: (941) 907-3873

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