Lunch Review: Beak's Old Florida

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Along Central Avenue, west of downtown and just east of U.S. 19, you’ll experience the Sunshine State of yesteryear with a funky-modern twist. And so it goes with Grand Central District’s dining-and-drinking crown jewel, Beak’s Old Florida. Festooned with tourist-trap trinkets, flamingoes, memorabilia and festive lanterns, the bar-restaurant feels like an old-time tavern and kitschy tourist trap. It’s overall a pretty place with a fun, down-to-earth atmosphere. A mile-long beer list and stiff cocktails wash down menu items with offbeat names. Hang out at the bar up front, the middle open-air area, where a live band sets up on Wednesday nights, or the ultra-verdant outdoor patio.  

Eat late: A mini menu is available till close (2 a.m.) late nights.

Don’t bring the kids: 21 and older only – it’s a liquor bar, folks.

Fun appetizers: Try the crispy-crunchy, herb-Parmesan-topped toasted ravioli or the Cock-a-too, a corn dog made with crabmeat.

Critter-friendly: Plenty of vegan/vegetarian options like the Whoo-Pie, a vegan pot pie stuffed with Portobello mushrooms.

Great food, inconsistent preparation: Beak’s goes above and beyond with creative twists and quality ingredients, but the outcome sometimes disappoints. Caribbean crisps, wedges of fried flour tortilla with toppings, were satisfying but unexceptional. Burgers are usually good, prepared with char-grilled Black Angus beef. We ordered a Center Stage Beached Nude, a fish sandwich prepared with smoked Applewood bacon and cheese that was sullied by an overly fishy, overcooked filet. Too bad. It could have been awesome.

A sure bet: the Smack ‘n’ Cheez, a sumptuously rich, homemade macaroni dish, hits the comfort-food spot.

Sweet finale: Try the Ancho fudge pie for dessert, a “Beak’s Original,” a brownie-ish treat served on a warm fudge slick with vanilla ice cream.

Hmm: A poster in the middle bar (which by the way boasts awesomely 70s, vinyl-swivel stools) begs the question, “What if the Hokey Pokey is what it’s all about?”

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Beak’s Old Florida

2451 Central Ave.

St. Petersburg (727) 321-9100

www.beaksoldflorida.com

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