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- Address:
- 5021 E Columbus Dr , Tampa, FL, 33619
- Phone:
- 813-248-9977
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Chicago has hot dog and sausage stands. New York has pizza joints. Philadelphia has cheese steak shops. And Tampa has Brocato’s.
Tampa’s diverse population has spawned some wonderful original creations in the kitchen. Tampa’s mix of Southern American, Cuban, Spanish, and Italian cooking created or adapted sturdy foods like devil crabs, Cuban sandwiches, Spanish Bean Soup, and crab enchilado (or chilau) with spaghetti. But the modern restaurant industry, with its array of shortcuts and homogenous Cisco-supplied packaged products, has not been kind to these edible classics. Trying to find a decent Cuban sandwich or devil crab can be a frustrating challenge. Few restaurateurs are willing to go through the trouble of treating our local favorites with dignity.
That’s why I find it so amazing that food writers and restaurant critics have neglected Brocato’s Sandwich Shop for so long. Journalists seem to spend their time looking for the next big thing, usually in expensive bistros that come and go. But when you visit Brocato’s it quickly becomes apparent that the lack of media attention and out of the way location haven’t hurt business there a bit. This glorious sandwich landmark has its own crowd of adoring fans that press their way to the counter six days a week.
The Digs: The restaurant itself is usually crowded, particularly around the soda dispenser and popular sweet tea station. Multiple lines backed up to the door are the norm. The outdoor seating and take out window help relieve the crowding and satisfy demand. Despite its unexceptional appearance, the place oozes personality, and an upbeat clientele. I’ve made friends while sharing picnic tables with strangers many times.
The food: Brocato’s buzz is well deserved. The devil crab rolls ($3.99) are among the very best, with a thin crust and a lush interior of lump crab and sofrito. Hot sauce is a must. Workers assemble the crabs all day long, fry them, and then place them in a hot case, where they do not last long before being whisked away by gleeful customers. The softball-sized stuffed potatoes ($3.99) are filled with tangy picadillo – seasoned ground beef with olives. These appetizers are so large that you may want to share if you hope to eat an entire sandwich, which come in two sizes, both of them large.
Served on Cuban bread, a large sandwich ($7.49, regular size a dollar less) could easily feed two. The Cuban sandwich is good, but the shaved ham is nothing special. The roast pork sandwich is far better, as are the Italian sub and meatball. The chicken parmesan is also a winner. The palomilla steak sandwich tastes good, but the meat is a little strange – a cluster of thin slices of breaded beef.
Onion ring lovers, rejoice! Brocato’s makes the real thing ($2.99), with a perfect batter. The salads are large and well made ($4.79 for a small salad, $7.99 for chef’s salad with meat). Get the house vinaigrette. The Spanish bean soup ($3.99) falls flat, with none of the rich savory flavors the soup is famous for. But that is easy to overlook when one considers Brocato’s many other specialties.
Service: There is no table service. You order at the counter and get your own drinks.
The cost: For the massive portions, prices are perfectly reasonable.
Brocato’s is a living legend that turned sixty years old in 2008. Perhaps it is time that it get its just due in the media.
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Brocato's Sandwich Shop
5021 E. Columbus Dr.
Tampa, FL 33619
813-248-9977
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