Lunch Review: Chopstix

In addition to mainstays Yummy House and China Yuan, Tampa can boast of a third excellent Chinese restaurant, Chopstix.  Not to be confused with a small pan-Asian chain in Gainesville, the restaurant opened in September run by three siblings: Michelle, Eva and chef Stan Du.  The Du sisters are very friendly, providing courteous service.  They know the food well and speak good English, making Yankees like myself comfortable with asking questions.

For a man of just 28, Stan's skills are impressive in the kitchen.  He trained in China as a young man and honed his kitchen skills in places such as T.C. Choy's, an upscale Hyde Park Chinese/Pan-Asian Bistro.  Down there, you're paying for waterfalls, slick decor, and the "bistro" moniker.  Chopstix has few frills, but offers solid food, large portions, and low prices.

The digs: Located off of Fletcher Avenue and 15^th Street, the food at Chopstix is of much better quality than the humble neighborhood would indicate.  But it is also close enough to the University of South Florida to benefit from its population.  The interior is pleasant and sparsely decorated.

The food: The watercress, pork and tofu soup ($6.95) was delightfully subtle, with sliced pork, soft tofu, and the namesake vegetable, which was cooked just right.  The Thai-style Dum Yum Soup ($7.95) rivals that of most Thai restaurants, with tomato, Thai basil, and perfectly cooked shrimp in a hot and sour broth.  I could eat it all day long, as it is so light and flavorful.

The dim sum menu yielded more mixed results.  The pork buns (most dim sum costs $2.95) had the right texture, but we were looking for a stronger roast pork flavor and sweetness in the filling.  The shrimp dumplings were cooked well, but needed more flavor.  Garlic would have helped.  The pork ribs with black bean sauce lacked punch, and tasted more like soy than a good, briny black bean sauce.  The pan fried dumplings, however, were spot on.

In comparison to the dim sum, the entrees were excellent.  The General Tso's chicken was a large order, even as a lunch special ($4.95), coming with a soup or egg roll, rice, and steamed broccoli.  The dried chilis in the sweet sauce did not supply enough heat for our tastes, but that was easily remedied with some chili paste.  Still, I'd like to see that dish with more heat and less sweet.  The honey and black pepper short ribs ($11.95 for a large portion) arrived sizzling and steaming.  They did not disappoint.  The sauce was slightly sweet, and the white mushrooms were lovely in the dish.  The beef with ginger and scallion ($9.95) was another fine choice, and the generous helping included green beans and carrots to round out the meal.  The seafood and tofu hot pot ($12.95) was excellent, with fish, scallops, squid, shrimp, and tofu.  The ingredients are brought to the table raw and cooked in a searing hot pan before your eyes with a light sauce.  I have always had a weakness for lo mein, and I've found my fix at Choptix.  The egg noodles are perfectly chewy, and the dish especially shines when made with shrimp ($7.95).  The crispy pan fried noodles with vegetables ($7.95) came presented beautifully.  Much of the dish's fun comes from the alternating crispy and soggy textures of the noodles as they are soaked with the thick sauce.  The large servings of vegetables were also winners.  The baby bok choy with mushrooms is a favorite ($9.95).

The cost: For heaping family-style portions, entrees mostly hover under ten dollars.  Dim sum costs about three.  For such quality and quantity, the prices are more than fair.  Lunch specials are a bargain, but with fewer choices.

The bottom line: Chopstix is a welcome addition to the Chinese food scene in Tampa, especially in the USF area.  Chef Stan Du is impressive, but still has room for improvement.  I look forward to tasting his development as a chef during future visits.  Best of all, I think he makes some of the best lo mein around.