Lunch review: De Santo

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It was a rainy, dreary afternoon in downtown St. Pete. The city's daily pace was slower than average, dampered by the drizzle. A few people hurried down the sidewalks, clutching their umbrellas. It would make sense that the restaurant's business wouldn't be as busy as it would be on a more pleasant day.

The Feel: At first, we didn't know where to go in. The signage wasn't obvious, there were no welcoming doors, only an intimidating gateway that, when open, gave no indication of belonging to the restaurant. However, it did open up to a beautiful courtyard area that would possibly look even more gorgeous when sunny.

The interior was dimly lit with interesting structure. The ceiling was distressed metal, accented by curved wooden beams. Bright artwork hung on the brick walls, including three large paintings of yellow flowers by the French doors. The furniture reflected the contemporary vibe, with minimalist tables and chairs. A mixture of music emanated from the ceiling speakers, from world music to trip- hop and something that sounded suspiciously like a Radiohead instrumental. If Thom Yorke and company didn't have their hands all over it, they'd dig it.

In their metal-plated drink menu, there were plenty of options, ranging from specialty martinis and cocktails to a standard selection of beer and wine. I can safely say that the drink selection was at least three times as long as their simplistic lunch menu. There were a few appetizers, sandwiches and a couple of salads, including a Buffalo mozzarella salad that may have fit in better at an Italian trattoria than a "Latin-American bistro". I can't say that it didn't sound appetizing, though.

The Grub: We started off with the guacamole ($7), topped with slivers of red pepper. The avocado-based dip was accompanied by blue tortilla chips, warm to the touch. They appeared to be freshly baked, rather than dumped out of a bag. The flavor of the dip was subtle and slightly citrusy, its thick texture a sign that it was also hand-made. Before long, all of the chips and most of the guac had disappeared.

Tacos sounded appealing to both of us as a light lunchtime meal. I had the grilled chicken tacos ($8), which were a departure from the norm. The tender, juicy chicken was cut into chargrilled cubes, rather than ground. A fresh take on greens -- cilantro replaced traditional lettuce for an extra kick. There was a light dusting of cheese on the bottom of the shell, nothing overwhelming. On the side were pico de gallo, a tangy hot sauce and refried beans. Naturally, I piled the extras on, making sure not to skimp on the hot stuff.  I wasn't a big fan of the refried beans, though -- they were bland and were mashed into a strange consistency.

My guest was the guinea pig for the fish tacos ($8) because I cannot appreciate seafood the way she can. The initial smell nearly knocked me out of my chair, but she didn't seem to mind the aroma as much. A mahi mahi filet was cut in half, with each placed in the two soft shells. A hint of papaya jazzed it up, with the brilliant cilantro substitution in this taco as well. According to her, the fish was cooked perfectly, not suffering the same dry fate that ruins many other fish tacos.

The Deal: De Santo's an interesting fusion of cuisine, and blends in well in downtown St. Pete. There's a party upstairs every night at Push Ultra Lounge (owned by the same proprietors as De Santo), but the only party going on in the mid-afternoon was the one in my stomach.

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