Lunch Review: Island Time Grill

(Credit: Chris Kohatsu)

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If there’s a danger sign in the culinary world, it’s when a restaurant falls victim to a culinary catchphrase.  We’ve seen the word “art” thrown into the title of restaurants, the term “fusion” to describe certain menu themes and even watched celebrity chefs make up words to suit their creations.  Of course, when an ambiguous description such as island cuisine is presented on a menu, it tends to raise a few eyebrows.  Does island cuisine mean Jamaican dishes, inspired by Chinese and East Indian foods?  Or does it take the form of Martinique cuisine, as found in the Caribbean and rooted in African and French foods?  Perhaps island cuisine is an American interpretation, where deep fried seafood and cocktail sauce seem to dominate?

Such questions aren’t directly answered at the Island Time Grill.  Instead, the menu offerings seem to subtly state that island cuisine is all of the above and then some.  The range of specialty dishes span from fish and seafood to roast duck, lamb and New York strip steak.  There is no definitive to island cuisine, and at Island Time Grill, it doesn’t matter.  What does matter is patrons find a way to relax, unwind, and enjoy their food and drink.  After all, that’s how island time is defined.

The Décor: Plantation shutters and dark wood floors meet bright teal walls and tropical artwork in the restaurant.  The calming dark tones balance the energy of the brighter hues creating a casual and laid back ambience.  Within the outdoor seating area are ceiling fans and wicker furniture which encourage diners to forget the traffic passing by. 

The Food:  There seems to be something for everyone on the menu.  The Roast Duck ($16.99) is a half duck doused with an orange and ginger glaze.  The glaze is not a sauce but more of a heavy syrup filled with an immense amount of sweetness.  At times, the rich flavor of duck meat seemed to be masked by the amount of sugar from the glaze.

The Basa Almondine ($10.99) is an almond crusted fillet, light in texture and easier to enjoy.  Accompanying the fish is a creamy amaretto sauce which pushes the entrée into a level of decadence.  Both entrees are served with chef’s choice of two sides.  The chef chose to pair both dishes with a serving of steamed vegetables and rice.  More creative energy should be placed in the accompanying sides, so as to match their respective entrée.

The featured dessert is the Monkey Bite ($7.00) a banana ice-cream pie served with crushed Oreo cookies, macadamia nuts, and caramel drizzle.  It’s delicious to the last bite and aptly portioned for sharing. 

The Drinks:  Specialty drinks include a variety of martini’s and colorful rum concoctions.  Frozen margaritas and daquiris are also offered.  Island Time Grill runs daily happy hour specials from 4:00 p.m. to 7:00 p.m. on well drinks, house wines, and Budweiser beer.

The Bottom Line:  Island Time Grill offers a great atmosphere for dining and drinks.  Some of the entrées, however, should be revisited by the chef.  At the very least, the accompanying side dishes should be given more thought.  The smooth drinks and yummy desserts may compensate some for the missed marks.  With well-thought out menu revisions and continuous feedback from customers, Island Time Grill can become the culinary retreat it aspires to be.

***

Island Time Grill

8225 Cooper Creek Blvd.

University Park, FL  34201

Tel: 941-351-5128

http://www.islandtimegrill.com/index2.htm

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