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It’s not a “rags to riches” story, but it’s equally as endearing. When Laura Sergo – current co-owner of three Mamma Onesti’s restaurants (two in Florida, one in Illinois) – was initially approached by restaurateur Frank Scarpino about going into business together, she was a little hesitant. After all, Scarpino was her employer. Laura Sergo worked as a waitress and manager for the Florida restaurant, but Scarpino already envisioned a third location, and someone to help continue Onnesti’s 28-year legacy of fine Italian dining.
“What made you finally agree to partner up and open a third location?” I asked Sergo, when stopping in for lunch last week.
“All of the food here is just like what my mom served when I was growing up. Being at Mamma Onesti’s was like coming home,” She answered. “And look at that,” Sergo pointed to the escargot that had just arrived at the table, “Where else are you going to get portions like that?”
She was right. Instead of 6 lonely little pieces of escargot, there were about two dozen on them (coupled with mushrooms) in blissful garlic, oil and white wine sauce that also tasted like it had a hint of chicken broth. I tried to get Sergo – who appears as if she should be called Mamma Onesta herself, ready to give everyone who visits a warm hug – to tell me more about the recipe, but was told it was a “house secret”.
The Food: In addition to my healthy plate of afternoon Escargot ($7.95) and warm rolls of bread for dipping into the thick cream sauce, I also settled on the equally creamy Snapper Portofino ($11.95) lunch special, served with a house salad and a side of spaghetti. My pasta-loving Ragazzo (Italian for “boyfriend”), ordered the Penne Cognac ($8.95), which I promptly leaned over to taste. The pasta was served with prosciutto and tomato sauce and then flamed in cognac. Everything from the appetizer to entrée was well-prepared in fresh, homemade ingredients.
Insider Tips: I’m a sauce lover…the more, the better. But if thick sauces are too rich for your palate, try the Tortellini Aurora ($13.95) with a light tomato sauce, or the Gnocchi Gorgonzola ($12.95) with a light tomato and gorgonzola cheese sauce. They can also adapt any entrée to suit your taste, just ask.
Also, 11 a.m. – 3 p.m. is the time to go for wallet-friendly lunch specials that range from $5.95 - $12.95 (most averaging around $9.95), while dinner promises an extensive menu filled with eggplant, veal, seafood, chicken and pasta options, and served with a soup or salad and pasta. Dinner ranges from $11.95-$18.95 (average is $15.95).
The Ambience: Mamma Onesti’s is fitting for both a casual business lunch or a get-together with friends over gelato. It is even appropriate for a classy—without-being-over-the-top – dinner. The Italian Bistro has demure tangerine walls, and marbleized tables, and a colorful wall mural of an Italian vineyard gives the sense that you’re on a mini-vacation from your everyday life. Onesti’s is much larger on the inside than you’d realize from the outside, with three partitioned dining areas and a full bar.
Know Your Gnocchi: For those who may not know, Gnocchi are dumplings made of potatoes, flour and/or semolina (wheat), while Tortellini are those little pasta dumpling wanna-be's that are joined at the ends to form a ring, often filled with meat or cheese (sometimes coming in a spinach, wheat or sun-dried tomato variety at the grocery store, in addition to plain). These are not to be confused with Penne noodles (little 1-2" long pasta tubes) or long and flat Fettuccini strands of noodle. If I have to tell you what Spaghetti noodles are, then get thee to Onesti's, stat!
Mamma Onesti’s is located at 8453 Cooper Creek Blvd., University Park, Florida, 34201. (941) 351-9595. And also at 4625 Cortez Rd., Bradenton, Florida, 34210. (941) 798-3067.
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