Lunch Review: Rick's on the River

(Credit: Nathalie Voirin)

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Despite surrounding a large body of water, Tampa suffers from a drought when it comes to waterfront bars and dining. Yeah, there's a bay named after the city and all, but let's keep the pretty views and calming waters protected by a really, really, really long sidwalk and Centcom. Outside of the hyped up bar scene of Channelside or Harbor Island, there is a reminder of Old Florida just a few miles north of the Bay along the Hillsborough River. Even if you're just visiting Tampa, you'll at least look like a local here. Rick's on the River serves up good food, cold beers and is laid back and comfortable enough to keep regulars coming back. Here's why:

The diggs: Hidden away in Tampa's old neighborhoods, the search for Rick's is well worth it. Just get on Columbus and head south when you get to Rome. The signs will point you there. The main attraction is the large deck overlooking the river. The wooden octagonal tables leave plenty of room for large groups, or find a spot for you and a buddy on one of the stools under the tiki bar. The outdoor bar is just one of three main bar areas. Inside, you'll step into a sports bar complete with arcade games and TV's. If you're really hankering for some seafood, check out the Oyster Bar. Honestly, I've been to Rick's several times and have only experienced the outside bar. It's one of few places to sit back and enjoy a casual Tampa evening near the water.

The dress code: In short, there isn't one. With Rick's Old Florida feel, you don't ever feel too underdressed to belly up to the bar after a day on the water. Just throw on your flip-flops, shorts, t-shirt, and baseball cap.

The eats: It's waterfront, so expect seafood. And lots of it. In fact, the outside pavilion area is landscaped with thousands of oyster shell remains--an indication of how many they serve up. Other seafood choices include shrimp, mussels, tuna, clams and crab made to order.

Needless to say, my coworker and I couldn't leave without endulging in some marine favorites. I started with Rick's Famous Grouper Sandwich, served blackened with lettuce, tomato, and tartar sauce. We had to cut this big boy in two, so if you're planning on having this all too yourself, arrive hungry. The side of seasoned fries were nice and thick and weren't on our plates for long.

The Peppercorn Seared Ahi Tuna is simply served with a sesame sauce and a side of greens. This is a nice option for sushi lovers. However, I prefer my Ahi a bit more on the raw and less on the seared side. The Steamed Greenshell Mussels arrived on a huge plate. While we usualy enjoy their steamed goodness, felt they were a bit dry and rubbery. However, the garlic topping and bread on the side was a nice touch. And for a personal favorite, we scarfed down some Raw Oysters.  These suckers are big and you'll most likely not be able to fit one on each cracker provided. Just top them in the shell with some horseradish, cocktail sauce, hot sauce and slurp it down. Follow up with a cracker chaser and reach for another. Apparently, the oysters are brought in from upper Apalachicola in north Florida. These go quickly at Rick's, so it's no wonder they landscape with the shells.

Don't like seafood? Rick's can satisfy everyone, including those who prefer the turf over the surf. The menu is peppered with finger foods such as buffalo wings, potato skins, philly cheese steaks, and hamburgers. Or, you can select an item from their specialty salad and wrap section. For something healthy, try the Seared Ahi Tuna Salad. It's personal favorite served with a sesame dressing and wasabi. My friend tried the Chicken Caribbean Salad. It was a little too fruity and sweet for me, but she liked the tropical flavors.

The price: For the quality of food offered, including the seafood, the price is perfect. Apps run from five to ten dollars. A complete dinner, salad, or sandwich won't even touch ten bucks. And the ambiance is free. Yet another reason why Rick's continues to pack them in during a recession.

The sounds: Rick's brings in live music every night with acoustic acts during the week and full bands on weekends. Expect to hear anything from the Seventies to Dave Matthews from the solo or duo gigs. The full bands are more upbeat, but the neighbors across the water won't hestiate to call in a noise complaint, so don't worry about your ears being blown out while you sip your brew.

Insider tips: If you're looking to dock your boat for a visit to Rick's, it's free. However, if your stay lasts after the sun sets, you'll pay $1 per foot per night overnight (plus tax).

And, if food wasn't enough, Rick's also has a salon next door. Yes, you can get pampered after a Po-Boy.
 
Even though there's an outdoor party pavilion, this is one party Rover will have to miss. They don't allow pets on deck, so keep them in the car or at the dock.

The bottom line: If only the S.S. Minnow had washed ashore here the gang wouldn't want to find a way off the island.

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