Inside: Cafe Alma

(Credit: Jacqui Anderson)

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The Spanish word for soul has inspired spirited turns of phrase for Cafe Alma. Known for its adventurous European flavor fusion, the downtown St. Pete restaurant has taken on a new life under new ownership. In March 2008, Chef/restaurateur Scott Vogel purchased Cafe Alma. The culinary mastermind behind Bonefish Grill and Hops brings a more populist, surf and turf appeal. Still alive are the twists on French, Italian, Hispanic and Mediterranean cuisines, but the menu has taken on a more Americanized citizenship, with fattening sauces and less texture and restraint. The new being swims a little more along the mainstream, which might be appealing to some. It’s still beautiful and compelling -- resembling a Spanish cellar with brick, wood and made over with silky drapes and track lighting -- but it’s less creative and risk-taking. Let’s hope Cafe Alma can channel some of its zesty past back again. Here’s what it should improve and hold onto.

Execution plus presentation should equal cost: A $20-plus an entree demands flair, attention to texture and balance. Though a nightly special of shrimp and scallops on skewers offers good quality and freshness – the shrimp, plump and the scallops, tender –but the shrimp was prepared with the shell on. Handling food drenched in sauce is just plain dumb. The herb-infused buttery wine sauce was flavorful, but you don’t want to lick your fingers at dinner that will run you a C-note. It’s impossible to peel a shrimp with your fork and knife, isn’t it? If there’s a technique to this, provide it on the menu.

Add some style to the substance: Kudos for your pork loin and mignon. Just give us more variety of preparation to go with them.

More texture and balance: At our dinner, steamed vegetables arrived soggy. Mussels were rubbery and overcooked. The good ol’ American mashed potatoes, however, were satisfying.

Extend creativity beyond appetizers. The calamari in ultra-red tomato sauce, served with garlic toast wedges, provides a refreshing change of pace from fried squidlets.

Add some kick to the dessert menu: Cheesecake, mousse, crème brulee and tiramisu? Those are great, but can’t you get them at Olive Garden or Carrabba’s?

Gracias for the sangrias: With brandy and triple sec, it might put you over the limit. Excellent but be advised!

Meet us Saturday and Sunday mornings: Brunches are a decadent break from the ordinary. Try the French toast stack or sweet potato pancake Benedict.

Check the Web site at CafeAlma.com for info on DJs and bands and prices on catering and special events. Menu is under construction as of this writing.

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Cafe Alma
260 1st. Ave. S. Ste 100
St. Petersburg, FL 33701
727-502-5002
http://www.cafealma.com

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