Inside: The Chart House

(Credit: Danielle Hope Hier)

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The Chart House

The Chart House Restaurants throughout the US are known for...

Chart House

Overlooking a private beach that empties into the Gulf of...

The Ambiance:  The Chart House Restaurant on Longboat Key is one of a series sprinkled throughout the US, but I wonder if all can boast of a view like the one you'll find here.  Overlooking a private beach that empties into the Gulf of Mexico, guests are often entertained with dolphins and manatees flitting by as they opt to dine on the balcony outdoors, or the air-conditioned indoor dining room.

The seating is attention worthy, with soft plush chairs and private booths in a round, there are several sections to the dining room, helping control the noise level, and create a sense of intimacy for couples and small parties.  Also worth mentioning is the unique lighting, where the chandeliers look more like drops of lemon Meringue , cotton candy and little Campanula Bell Flowers. 

With all this to the backdrop of low playing world music and jazz nouveaus, you should be clued in that you're about to experience something just a little bit different.

The Food:  Executive Chef Stephanie Klos is a member of the Recipe' Development Board for their more than two dozen locations, and offered me a not-yet-released appetizer, Ahi Tartare.  Topped with wasabe, scallions and white onions and coupled with sesame crisps, the Ahi was served in a Himalayan Salt Bowl that's chilled, and releases sea salt seasonings into the food as it thaws.  The allium fire-food lover will appreciate the layers of pungent wasabe, then onions, and then scallions as they dig through the dish (And don't be afraid to pick up the splayed scallion stalks with your fingers.  Short of cutting it up into tiny pieces, there's no way around it.).  Take a moment to chew the ahi and endamame slowly, or else you won't get the "point" of the Japanese soy bean inclusion.  The slow release of sweet flavor enhances the ahi and takes a bit of the raw fish aftertaste away.  The appetizer will be priced at around $11.99 a plate.  Accompanied with a glass of the slightly peppery Cycles Gladiator Pinot Noir ($8.50), and the two might have made for a light meal alone, if a small spinach or caesar salad were added.

Next, prepared by Executive Chef Mike Bennett (there are two leaders heading up the large kitchen of this establishment), and team of cooks, was the main course.  The Snapper Hemingway ($30.99) arrived encrusted with parmesan, and topped with jumbo lump crab in a shallot butter sauce.  Easy to understand why this is a customer favorite, the snapper was light and flaky, enhanced by the juicy, and not too overdone crab meat.  The sparing amount of shallot butter cream was just enough to add a flavorful color, without being overpowering.

Lastly, Chef Stephanie returned with another of her personal creations, never before tried by the public.  The Bacon Ice Cream (Oh yes, you read that right, bacon.) was surrounded by vanilla-scented cherries, and accompanied by two maple beignets, and stabbed through the top with a slice of caramelized bacon.  It will go for about $7.99 if added to the menu, and if you happened to save a bit of that Gladiator Pinot Noir, it'll go with this dessert as well.

Strange, yes. But it worked, provided that you a) like bacon, and b) don't mind having a salty breakfast meat as dessert.  What can I say, but the vanilla cherries and bacon ice cream were a sensitive combination of salty, sweet and tangy that united in what turned out to be one of the most unique desserts I have ever encountered.

Insider Tips:  If you're on a budget, don't dash off in fear.  The Chart House offers an early dining menu between 5 and 6 p.m.  $20 entrees include a side dish (baked or garlic mashed potato, asparagus, coconut ginger rice, creamed spinach, mushrooms or broccoli and red bell peppers).  Menu items include prime rib, salmon, tilapia, the expansive salad bar, and tomato basil chicken.  They're all the same full portions you'd enjoy at any time of night.

Happy Hour is between 4:30 and 6:30 p.m., and includes $3-$5 appetizers, and beer, wine, martinis and cocktails from $2.50 - $6.

The Chart House is located at 201 Gulf of Mexico Dr # 12, Longboat Key, FL 34228.  Phone: (941) 383-5593

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