Lunch Review: The Central Cafe'

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Walking into the Central Cafe' took me back to my New York days living in a studio apartment on the corner of Allan and Delancey, deciding whether to be lazy and take the 6 train from Essex and transfer at Houston, or actually make the trek to Union Square and stop by a street vendor for a $1.25 coffee and donut fix en route to NYU.

It's urban-esque atmosphere, right down to the cement floors and visible overhead sprinkler pipes, gives the illusion that you're walking into a coffee house across from Central Park, not the center of Bradenton.  Where you are suddenly jolted back to realization that you're in Florida, is when you pick up the menu:  fish tacos, Gulf Coast salad, Marley's shrimp, scallop and crab cakes, and pepper crusted Ahi tuna.

"Have you tried the Tomato Blue?":  You cannot mention the Central Cafe' without someone asking, "Did you try the Tomato Blue soup?"  The hint of creamy blue cheese blended with a touch of basil was nearly perfect ($3.75). I say "nearly" because I'm such a turophile, that they could have added large chunks of crumbled blue cheese on top, and I would have been even more delighted.  Interestingly enough, it was just mild enough for my boyfriend, who normally doesn't even like gorgonzola, blue or any other cheese that isn't purely yellow or white.

The Menu:  A modest selection of appetizers, salads, sandwiches, pizza, burgers and seafood features, where it shines is in the unique offerings, like the seaweed salad, vegetable sandwiches (that include squash, portabella, artichokes and roasted pepper in a home made vinaigrette), smoked salmon pizza and a French twist on an American BLT. They also have a fairly extensive wine list, with most popular selections listed on the lengthy chalkboard at the bar.

We split two dishes, the French-American (a bacon, lettuce and tomato sandwhich with brie cheese on a baguette), and the Smoked Salmon 11" hand tossed pizza (with capers, pesto, mozzarella and parmesan).   The former BLT ($8) got my attention because of the brie, of course.  The thick cut tomatoes and healthy helping of mixed greens were much appreciated.  If I ordered it again, however, I'd put in a request that the baguette be toasted and the brie be a little softer (and closer to room temperature) before serving.  The thin and crispy hand cut fries ($1 extra as a side) served alongside will get my vote for "Best of the Bay", as they were bordering on addictive.

The latter smoked salmon ($10) had a wonderful flavor, saltiness to be expected, so drink plenty of water.  No complaints there, although if I ordered it for take-out, I think I'd be requesting a small side of sour cream, because my taste buds were confused. Is it a pizza or is it a nova lox sandwich? We polished off lunch with a sample of the ever-smooth Peanut Butter Pie ($5) made special that day and baked with a thin dark chocolate crust.

Insider Tips:  Arrive before 3 p.m., and pay only $7 for any hand tossed pizza on the menu, and then stay for a $3.50 house wine or draft beer during the 3-6 p.m. Happy Hour.  

If You're Ever In Manhattan - A few tips if you decide to visit the Big Apple:

1. It's pronounced "House-ton" Street, not "Houston" like Texas. It's just spelled that way...Don't ask me, I didn't name it.
2. Cabbies LOVE to take tourists on the "scenic route" (running up the meter), so don't act like one.  If you're heading to the Metropolitan Opera House, you don't ask, "Can you take me to the Metropolitan Opera House, please?" You state, "The Met, please.  Take 10th Avenue".  If you request an obscure location, and are asked where it is, a street address should suffice.  If it's a landmark impossible to miss (like Central Park or the Museum of Natural History), and they ask, the proper retort is, "Well if YOU don't know, let me off at the next corner."
3. The Express (A Train) is only a good option if it actually STOPS where you need it to.  You can download subway maps online at: www.mta.info.
4. Make sure to check out www.newyork.metromix.com for the latest Broadway shows, concerts, outdoor events and restaurants.

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Central Cafe'  is located on 906 Manatee Ave. E. Phone:  941-757-0050.  Hours:  Monday, 11 a.m. - 2 p.m., Wedsnesday-Friday, 11 a.m. - 9 p.m. Closed on Weekends.

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